Fashion Week is a circus, and no one relishes the big top more than Jeremy Scott.
The designer’s February runway show had fashionistas sweltering in an 80-degree room as they waited for attendee Kylie Jenner to appear, 45 minutes late and with TV crew in tow. Gate-crashers stole seats, relegating top editors from Elle and Teen Vogue to watching a live stream of the presentation in a screening room. Model Gigi Hadid stormed the runway in velvet bell-bottoms emblazoned with the face of Jesus; Anna Cleveland sashayed in a gaudy, Vegas-era Elvis cape.
The industry Web site Fashionista.com called the event a “s – – tshow,” while other critics scoffed at the C-listers, such as Sofia Richie, mugging in the front row. But for Scott, that embrace of chaos, celebrity and kitsch is the whole point.
“I’ve always been inspired by pop culture,” the 42-year-old designer told The Post. “I’ve always been very democratic about my view of fashion and iconography.” As for his haters?
“I would say that they’re stuffy and they could go to another show.”
They do so at their own peril. This Fashion Week marks the 20th anniversary of Scott’s namesake brand — his show on Friday will be a retrospective of his career — and, love him or hate him, his postmodern, cartoon aesthetic is everywhere.
It’s on TV, with Katy Perry and Miley Cyrus strutting in his eye-popping designs at the MTV Video Music Awards. It’s on newsstands, where reality stars are on the cover of Vogue. It’s even on the Paris runway, with revered labels such as Vetements and Gucci splattering images from “Titanic” or Disney cartoons onto their clothes.
Having begun her career with small roles in CSI: NY and 90210 – as well as a small stint as a ‘briefcase girl’ on Deal or no Deal –Meghan Markle shot to fame in 2011 when she was cast as paralegal Rachel Zane in Suits.
Not her only reason for being in the spotlight, however, Markle has also been dating Prince Harry for the last nine months.
Confirming their relationship last November, Harry made an emotional appeal for the couple to be left in peace.
Instructing Kensington Palace to issue a statement on his behalf, Harry called Markle his “girlfriend” and noted that she had been the “subject to a wave of abuse and harassment” including a torrent of racist and sexist slurs by “social media trolls”.
Previously relatively quiet on the celebrity circuit, Markle met Prince Harry in Toronto in May 2016 during his promotional visit for the Invictus Games. Soon after she was photographed taking her seat in the royal box at Wimbledon.
While she is an ambassador for World Vision Canada as well as an advocate for United Nations Women, Markle’s father is a Hollywood lighting director and her mother a yoga instructor.
And while you may think balancing a role in a hot legal drama alongside humanitarian work would keep the young star busy enough, the star has also shown a keen interest in fashion.
Sitting front row during a number of shows at New York Fashion Week, Markle has shown her support to designers such as Tory Burch, Wes Gordon, Marchesa, Herve Leger and Tracy Reese.
here are many sad things about coming back from holidays. For one, it’s the beginning of the end for that glowy skin you only get after about a week away from your desk and in the fresh air. But with a little prep and a bit of shimmer, you can fake that dewy look all year. Here is how I do it.
Prepping your skin is the most essential part of this process. I use exfoliators and pore-cleansing masks as part of my regular routine, which helps other products sink into my skin easily. My favourite is NSPA’s glow mud mask (Asda, £7). I also use a combination smoothing lightweight emulsion moisturiser (Bare minerals, £30), which adds loads of dewiness but has a lightweight texture that feels comfortable on the skin.
Apply a liquid illuminator all over your face as a base. I like the Buxom Cosmetics liquid highlighter in Divine Goddess (Debenhams, £21) for a really subtle “wet skin” glow.
I use a Real Techniques sponge (Superdrug, £3.99) to blend my foundation properly without leaving too much excess on my face. My favourite for a natural dewy look is the Bare Minerals bare skin foundation in the colour Walnut (Bare Minerals, £28).
I use concealer under my eyes, down my nose, and on the centre of my chin, which brightens the places the sunlight naturally hits my face. Decide where to put your concealer depending on your face shape. I use Too Faced born this way concealer in Medium tan (Debenhams, £20), which stays dewy even when it has been set with powder. I use pressed transluscent powder, rather than loose, such as Inglot Cosmetics HD pressed powder in shade 404 (Inglot, £12).
For extra glow I add a light contour to my cheeks using the Buxom Cosmetics hot escapes bronzer in the shade Maldives (Debenhams, £21). To bring back warmth to my skin, I add a touch of blusher, then complete by dusting a shimmery golden highlight on the highest point of my cheekbone, and the tip of my nose. Focus this shimmery highlight on the areas you want to enhance and bring forward. I love to use the Nip+Fab travel palette in Medium/Dark 2 (Superdrug, £9.95) which has the contour, blush and highlight in one.
Finally, add a little bit of a shimmery lip gloss to compliment your dewy skin. I am using the Buxom cosmetics lip polish in Sugar (Debenhams, £15) on top of my Nip+Fab lip liner in Espresso (Superdrug, £5.95).
Is John Lewis at the frontline of modern gender politics? It has never seemed so before, but judging by the reaction to the department store’s announcement last week that its own-brand children’s clothes will no longer be divided by gender, some people clearly see the retailer as radical. There will now be no separate sections in the stores, nor such binary labels on the clothes themselves; instead, the labels will read “girls and boys” or “boys and girls”.
The conversation over whether clothing should be more gender-neutral does not just apply to childrenswear – over the past decade there has also been a marked rise in gender-neutral clothing for adults. Some high-end designers such as JW Anderson, Rick Owens and Rad Hourani have championed gender-neutral clothing, while a raft of smaller companies run by young designers, such as Rich Mnisi, are pushing the idea that men’s and women’s clothes should be obsolete categories. This approach has also filtered down to the high street – H&M and Zara have both created non-gendered ranges.
The British designer Katharine Hamnett has a long history of exploring non-gender-specific clothing, and her newly reissued collection features unisex shirts, sweatshirts and silk all-in-one suits. She says that, in the past, when women stepped on to more traditionally male sartorial territory – wearing military-inspired clothing, for instance – this “was about appropriating male power”. Now, she says, a move towards equality means women “may be feeling more comfortable with themselves”; in other words, they may have the freedom to wear what they like. (It is still far less common for men to seek out traditionally female clothing.)
Chloe Crowe, brand manager for Bethnals, a London-based unisex denim brand, says that when they have run pop-up shops, men and women in couples have come in and bought jeans that they can share. The company was launched in 2014 by Melissa Clement, a former senior denim buyer for Topshop, who borrowed her partner’s clothes a lot and wondered why men’s and women’s categories had to be different. The core styles of her brand – skinny, straight and relaxed – are cut the same for men and women. “It’s just clever pattern cutting,” says Crowe. “With denim, it can vary so much depending on your body shape. One woman is not going to [fit in] the same pair of jeans as another woman. I think it makes things a lot more simplistic, and it’s about the style and design rather than your sex.”
The growth of the brand follows more awareness and discussion around gender fluidity and what it means to reject the male/female binary. A study for the Fawcett Society last year found that 68% of young people believe gender is non-binary. “When Bethnals lauched, there wasn’t a lot [about gender],” says Crowe. “More brands have released gender-neutral clothing. It has filtered its way to the mass market. There seems to be a huge demand for it.”
“You don’t look at food and say it’s going to be eaten by a man or a woman, so why should it be any different for clothes?” saysTanmay Saxena, founder and designer of LaneFortyfive. The clothing Saxena designs is mostly bespoke tailoring, including shirts and waistcoats; about 60% of his customers are women. The clothes are the same styles for men and women, in the same fabrics, and while the shirts and smocks are cut the same, only the fit for trousers is slightly different.
He has been working on the label for about three years, but formally launched it last year. “I couldn’t find clothes that suited my own style. The basic idea was I would make something that I can wear but at the same time, it has to be irrespective of gender. That idea was always in my head.”
The shirt company GFW Clothing – GFW stands for Gender Free World – has three fits, designed to fit different bodies rather than the broad terms “men” or “women”. Lisa Honan co-founded the brand online less than two years ago and opened a shop in Hove earlier this year.
Initially, she says, it was borne out of frustration at not being able to find shirts she liked. “I’d look in the men’s aisle and see great patterns and short-sleeved shirts, and then you’d go to the women’s aisle and they were blousy, they’ve got puffs or are lacy.” The men’s shirts, she says, didn’t fit her “because I’ve got a woman’s body. It got me thinking why is [there] a man’s aisle and a woman’s aisle, and why do you have to make that choice? You’re not able to make many purchases without being forced to define your own gender.”
Will we ever get to the point where we don’t have men’s and women’s sections in shops? “I would love that,” says Honan. “It’s about expressing your style and being able to choose what you want without having to be told that, because of your sexual characteristics, you have to shop in a certain way.”
For avid fashion fans across the UK, one of the biggest dates in the calendar is the bi-annualLondon Fashion week.
Despite many of us never getting anywhere near the celebrity adorned front rows of designer shows, the event provides some insight about what we will be wearing next season – and more importantly what to invest in now.
The British Fashion Council (BFC), who organise the event, announced a shake up of events, moving the official show space of LFW and London Collections (the men’s equivalent) to its new home at The Store Studios, in central London.
The London Fashion Week Festival, formerly London Fashion Weekend, has also changed and will give the public an opportunity to celebrate fashion.
The city-wide events will allow shoppers direct access to designers, industry insiders and influencers.
The main focus of the festival is a ticketed event, hosted at The Store Studios, 180 Strand, in central London, where designers and their teams host curated pop-up shops, from over 150 international and British brands.
The shake up marks a change in tides in recent years, with more high-end designers and high street retailers offering innovative ways to get shoppers more involved.
Brands like Topshop, Marks & Spencer and Burberry have all adopted the runway to retail approach, introducing ‘buy now’ business models to their collections.
London Fashion Week
For those hoping to sort out tickets to LFW shows and events or blag their way into an after party or two, we’ve got your definitive guide to all this fashion week related below.
When is this London Fashion Week?
The next fashion week in London takes place from 14th – 19th September 2017, showcasing designers’ Spring Summer 2018 (SS18) collections. The British Fashion Council (BFC) presides over all the organisation of the week-long shows and events.
Where will it be hosted?
The main hub of actions on the official schedule will take place at these venues in central London:
BFC SHOW SPACE – The Store Studios, 180 Strand, London, WC2R 1EA
BFC PRESENTATION SPACE – The Store Studios, 180 Strand, London, WC2R 1EA
Here is our run down of the key shows worth looking out for.
Friday 15th September
3:30pm – Shrimps – The fun faux fur label we can’t get enough of.
Saturday 16th September
11am – JW Anderson – the Northern Irish designer recently teamed up with Uniqlo for a collection.
12pm – Molly Goddard – The Central St Martins graduate won the British Emerging Talent award at the 2016 Fashion Awards and is a 2017 LVMH Prize finalist.
5pm – House of Holland – Expect the likes of Alexa Chung and Lottie Moss on the FROW, Henry Holland’s slogan tees are always quirky and eye-catching.
7pm – Burberry – the show that attracts all the A-listers to the FROW.
Sunday 17th September
9am – Mary Katrantzou – a favourite of former First Lady Michelle Obama, the Greek designer has taken the fashion world by storm since launching her brand in 2008.
10am – Anya Hindmarch – as the the queen of bags, Hindmarch’s shows are unashamedly playful and full of creative panache.
3pm – Temperley London – Renowned for her feminine and ethereal designs, it’s guaranteed to be a breathtaking show.
4pm – Topshop – a good one for a bit of celeb spotting, expect big name models strutting their stuff and you’ll even be able to shop items from the collection online too.
Monday 18th September
11am – ERDEM – this designer has been worn by the likes of Kate Middleton, Sienna Miller and even Ms Vogue herself, Anna Wintour. His first high street collaboration with H&M also launches in November
3pm – Christopher Kane – he brought us embellished crocs for SS17, so will he get everyone talking again?
5pm – Emilia Wickstead – the Kiwi-born designer has celebrity fans such as Olivia Palermo, Poppy Delevingne and the Duchess of Cambridge.
Tuesday 19th September
7pm – Tommy Hilfiger – Look out for Gigi Hadid and the chance to see it, buy it now.
You can check the full show schedule for London Fashion Week here.
Along with giant screens to catch all the shows, there will also be a variety of talks (including Q&As and panel discussions with industry experts) designer and trend-led catwalk shows and a chance to shop from some must-have British brands.
1. Payne Stewart
If you are going to dress like a modern fashion maverick on the course, you better have the game to back it up. Fortunately for the plus fours-wearing, Argyle-sock sporting, flat cap-crowned Stewart, he did…
2. Ben Hogan
Golfing great Hogan won nine major championships, but he scores a perfect ten in the style stakes. Always dapper and impeccably tailored, he never hit the links without his signature hat and ubiquitous cigarette.
3. Ted Rhodes
African-American golfer Rhodes had the game, he had the look – a unique hipster jazz fashion sense – and he was super cool. Hell, he had it all. Quite simply he was the Tiger Woods of his era.
4. Seve Ballesteros
“I don’t want people to watch the way I dress,” Ballesteros once said of the interest generated by his classically simple Seventies style. “I want people to watch the way I play.” Well, sorry, Seve… but we did both.
5. Walter Hagen
Not just a well-dressed for a golfer, Hagen was well-dressed, full stop. His eye-catching style, handmade outfits and tailored knitwear helped transform the image of golf in the Twenties and Thirties.
6. Arnold Palmer
Known in the golf world as the king of cool (even before Steve McQueen copyrighted the title), Palmer dressed on the course like he should have been in the Rat Pack. A Fifties vision in flat-fronted trousers, fitted shirts, black-and-white brogues… and a cardigan.
7. Rikard Karlberg
Sweden’s Karlberg is a modern master with a unique taste in fashion. Mixing flat caps and a hipster beard, with the sharp lines and slim fit of Hugo Boss Green, he embodies the golf look of 2017.
8. Gary Player
The Johnny Cash of the golf course, South African Player is known for his adherence to a single stylistic principle: always wear black. His father suggested he have a golfing gimmick and the “Black Knight” chose to wear one colour throughout his career. It worked.
9. Jack Nicklaus
The Golden Bear wasn’t the best dresser in the game when he was at the height of his powers, but he makes this list because of his green jackets. As a six-time winner of the Masters, we think that is about the best fashion statement any golfer can ever make.
10. Jesper Parnevik
Thanks to bands like The Beastie Boys, the Nineties was the decade where golf became cool again. And the golfer that embodied that resurgence in style was Jesper Parnevik, replacing pastels with a slim-fitting mod look, finished off with a flip-billed hat.
And five of the worst…
1. John Daly
The man, the myth, the trouser mistakes.
2. Woody Austin
Dressed in shirts that looked like he was trying to win a bet.
3. 1999 US Ryder Cup Team
No. Just… no.
4. Ian Poulter
When he gets it right, he’s great. But when he gets it wrong…
5. Donald Trump
The Donald sports a look that is pure coffee.