Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the designers behind the fashion label Proenza Schouler, have flown the coop. When we meet before their show, it is in a raw concrete space in the 17th Arrondissement of Paris rather than in their SoHo studio in New York. Next to a Levi’s store and a stone’s throw from Bloomingdales, their SoHo home base is quintessentially New York. And while their address in Paris recalls their usual show spaces — the galleries around New York’s arty Chelsea — you can glimpse the Arc de Triomphe from the end of the street. McCollough and Hernandez are not only Americans — they’re bringing a little piece of America to Paris, too.
This is Proenza Schouler’s first show in Paris since Hernandez and McCollough founded the brand in 2002. Hernandez, 38, and McCollough, 40, met while studying at Parsons School of Design in New York, and have called that city home ever since. (They’ve shown in places as classically New York as the Whitney Museum, the Met Brauer and even a gutted office space on Wall Street.) Their creative synergy is exceptional: They give quick-fire interviews in tandem, batting ideas back and forth and finishing each other’s sentences. Talking through their collection, they each grab at similar pieces — a dress in what appears to be jacquard, but is actually lace bonded to crepe; a feather-embroidered skirt; a squishy cubic mink bag; a low, heavily beaded pump inspired, they say, by the ones created by Roger Vivier for Dior in the 1960s. “They kind of make a crazy jingle when you put them on,” says McCollough; Hernandez obligingly shakes the shoe.
Why Paris, and why now? One answer is the impending launch of their first fragrance with the French cosmetics company L’Oréal, which is slated for early next year — and which they hope will kick Proenza Schouler into another level of global recognition. Maybe a pending Paris-based perfume launch is a bit too obvious (read: commercial) a motivation for showing on the other side of the Atlantic — at least for a designer to admit. Nevertheless, the duo allow that their near-constant trans-Atlantic commute over the past two years to refine the scent (which is still under wraps) allowed them to consider Paris as a place to show their collection. That was compounded earlier this year by an invitation from the Chambre Syndicale, the governing body of Paris haute couture week, to present as part of the official calendar.
More fundamentally, with this show, the designers are trying to challenge fashion conventions — namely scheduling. Ready-to-wear designers normally show fall clothes in February and spring clothes in September, and the clothes arrive in stores roughly six months later. But Proenza Schouler is presenting its spring/summer 2018 ready-to-wear collection during the fall/winter 2017 haute couture season. (Though the brand isn’t haute couture, the designers are taking advantage of the fact the members of the press are in Paris to attend the couture shows.)
What it means on a practical consumer level is that these clothes will be delivered earlier — hitting stores around November — and will stay available for longer. The brand will do away with the concept of precollections and will, from now on, create only two collections a year. “We’re consolidating pre and main into one collection,” says McCollough. “Precollection is when the bulk of the business is done — so why not show the things we pour our heart and soul into?”
Accordingly, this collection has been a labor of love: Rather than the six month lead time normally afforded a spring/summer collection, the designers and their team pulled this show together in just four. (They also transplanted their entire Manhattan staff to a Parisian atelier, which is no small feat.) Bigger, perhaps, than the shift of staff is the change in mind-set it represents for the designers. “We didn’t want to necessarily have a couture feel,” McCollough says of the collection — couture being fashion shorthand for anything embroidered, embellished or generally worked. Yet in this collection, there is a feathered jacket that took a week to make, while other pieces are created from hand-embroidered flowers, crocheted ribbon and devoré velvet bonded with chiffon. There’s lots of very French lace too — the color palette is dominated by black, white and rosé beige, the color of pink champagne. “There is always an element in every collection you do that’s more work or more embroidered or put together,” McCollough allows, standing in front of Proenza Schouler’s feathered jacket. “I mean, just coming here…” He stops, and Hernandez picks up. “It’s impossible not to be influenced or inspired by coming out here and knowing you’re doing a show in Paris,” he says. “And what came before us, what we looked at, everyone that we’ve ever been inspired by. Growing up, historically, contemporary, everything that’s interesting to us, happened here. So of course there’s that weight on you!” He smiles widely.
Cut to 48 hours later, and their runway show — which is held in the cloisters of a 19th-century high school that is still in use today — is already over. In one corner, Hernandez and McCollough are being mobbed by a crush of postshow well-wishers, including Glenda Bailey, the editor in chief of American Harper’s Bazaar, and Stefano Tonchi of W magazine. The New York designer Tory Burch leaps into the throng, dressed in a posy-print Proenza Schouler dress, and kisses the designers. “The Americans invade Paris!” she cries out. It certainly seems that way.
A number of senior figures have exited the magazine in recent weeks amid reports that its new editor is making some staffing changes before he officially begins on 1 August.
Edward Enninful is taking over from Alexandra Shulman, who announced in January that she was leaving after 25 years in charge.
He is the first male editor in the magazine’s history, and is already making a few tweaks (or, removing “posh girls”, as The Times put it) to the senior editorial team.
Since his hiring was announced, Vogue veterans such as Lucinda Chambers and Emily Sheffield have announced their departure as Enninful gears up to bring in his own team.
But it hasn’t been a smooth transition so far.
Chambers, Vogue’s former fashion director, was one of the first major figures to leave.
And she did so in style.
“Lucinda has announced that she is to step down from her position,” the magazine delicately said on its website in May.
“A month and a half ago I was fired,” she said in a candid interview with fashion blog Vestoj, published this week.
“Truth be told, I haven’t read Vogue in years. The clothes are just irrelevant for most people – so ridiculously expensive.”
“Most fashion magazines leave you totally anxiety-ridden,” she said, adding: “We are always trying to make people buy something they don’t need. We don’t need any more bags, shirts or shoes. So we cajole, bully or encourage people to continue buying.”
The comments echo what Shulman herself said earlier this year.
“At the end of the day, very few people have to have another pair of trousers, another skirt, another bomber jacket, so what you are doing as an industry is creating desire,” she said.
Hilary Alexander, editor-at-large for Hello! Fashion Monthly and trustee of Graduate Fashion Week, says there’s an element of truth in Chambers’s comments.
“There’s no doubt there are too many clothes in the world, and the number of collections being pumped out month after month, you could spend the entire year going from one Fashion Week to another,” she says.
“But at the opposite end of the scale, fashion is a huge industry that employs millions of people across the world, it’s worth around £28bn a year in this country alone if you include the retail sector.”
The departure of senior figures like Chambers is to be expected, says Susie Lau, fashion blogger and journalist.
“From an industry point of view, it’s completely normal for someone like Edward Enninful to come in and say he wants a completely new team,” she tells the BBC.
“Especially at the senior level, he would want to have people that he feels can push forward the new editorial direction, and I think it is going to be a very different tone and feel to what Alex did.”
Chambers appeared to be pulling no punches with her rather honest interview, but not long after it was published, it was taken down… and then put back up again.
“Due to the sensitive nature of this article, we took the decision to temporarily remove it from the site,” Vestoj said in a statement.
“In terms of the reasons why it was removed, they are directly related to the industry pressures which Lucinda discusses in her interview.
“As you know, fashion magazines are rarely independent because their existence depends on relationships with powerful institutions and individuals. We created Vestoj to be an antidote to these pressures, but we are not always immune.”
You can see why some figures in the fashion industry may not have been best pleased with the Chambers article.
At one point in the interview, she said: “The June cover with Alexa Chung in a stupid Michael Kors T-shirt is crap. He’s a big advertiser so I knew why I had to do it. I knew it was cheesy when I was doing it, and I did it anyway.”
But Lau says the close relationship between advertisers and journalists has always been a fixture of the industry.
“[Chambers] has been in fashion for so long, she’s worked for a magazine where the commercial concerns are hugely important, and that’s not anything new,” she said
“Advertisers are of course given precedence, and maybe creative control has to be sometimes compromised – but it was ever thus. That’s part and parcel of working in a print landscape that has undergone so many changes.”
She adds that Chambers’s comments in the interview are understandable given how long she has spent working at Vogue.
“I think when you work in the industry you do become quite jaded. When you’re dealing with the mainstream side of fashion and doing it in a very commercially-minded way, it can get cynical.
“There are wonderful creative and brilliant things happening, but I guess if your day-to-day isn’t about that any more, that can wear you down.”
Vogue’s replenishing continued on Tuesday with reports another senior figure announced she was exiting the publication.
Deputy editor Emily Sheffield, who is also the sister of Samantha Cameron, said she was leaving her role as Vogue’s deputy director “after a very happy decade”.
She might not have updated her Twitter biog yet, but the invitations for her leaving do have gone out so we’re pretty sure it’s only a matter of time.
“Emily Sheffield was suggested as a replacement when Alex’s retirement was announced, so it’s only natural if you’re thinking you might get the top job and someone newer and younger comes in, that you would feel there isn’t really a place for you any more,” Alexander explains.
Both Lau and Alexander are looking forward to seeing what changes are made to the magazine when Enninful officially starts as editor.
“I’m excited because he is a brilliant stylist, I think Vogue will be a lot more diverse, I think we can expect surprises and shocks,” Alexander says.
“Perhaps there will be more focus on younger, newer designers, those who are working in unusual ways. I would welcome that, you don’t want to constantly read about the same old faces.”
Lau adds: “I know some of the people going in there [to Vogue], they haven’t been announced yet but I think it’s going to be a really exciting team.
“It won’t be quite as different as people are painting it, but there will be changes. Vogue is a barometer of our times, and I think it will reflect that.”
Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week is officially here, and once again, the celebrity guests did not disappoint.
From hot hair hues to quirky ensembles, ET’s rounded up the most memorable looks from the females who went all out for their fashionable trip to France.
Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week is officially here, and once again, the celebrity guests did not disappoint. From hot hair hues to quirky ensembles, ET’s rounded up the most memorable looks from the females who went all out for their fashionable trip to France.
Katy Perry steals the show in a totally out-there ensemble.
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Katy Perry attends the Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017-2018 show as part of Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week on July 4, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
Her perfect pixie cut, those metallic stilettos, the spaceman-printed two piece… the “Swish Swish” singer undoubtedly turned heads at the Chanel runway show, and for all the right reasons.
Lily Collins’ bright eyeshadow is the summer beauty product we didn’t know we needed.
Her perfect pixie cut, those metallic stilettos, the spaceman-printed two piece… the “Swish Swish” singer undoubtedly turned heads at the Chanel runway show, and for all the right reasons. Lily Collins’ bright eyeshadow is the summer beauty product we didn’t know we needed.
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Lily Collins attends the Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017-2018 show as part of Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week on July 4, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
New obsession alert! It’s always risky to go bold with vibrant eyeshadow shades, but after seeing the actress sport this trend, we now know it’s possible to pull off. Collins left the eyeliner at home, using only mascara on her lashes and lavender shadow over her lids to create a refreshing winged look. Her light pink lip gloss topped it off perfectly.
Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevingne give ‘legs for days’ new meaning.
Celebrities spotted leaving Vogue party as part of Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week in Paris, France.
Sexy and chic! The supermodels highlighted their slender, toned legs in body-hugging mini dresses and pumps at Vogue’s Foundation Dinner. The girls proved once and for all that this stylish combo is the perfect way to show off those bronzed limbs for summer.
Karlie Kloss goes platinum…
Sexy and chic! The supermodels highlighted their slender, toned legs in body-hugging mini dresses and pumps at Vogue’s Foundation Dinner. The girls proved once and for all that this stylish combo is the perfect way to show off those bronzed limbs for summer. Karlie Kloss goes platinum…
US model Karlie Kloss poses during the photocall before Christian Dior 2017 fall/winter Haute Couture collection show in Paris on July 3, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / Patrick KOVARIK (Photo credit should read PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP/Getty Images)
New month, new ‘do! Moments before the Christian Dior runway show, the model debuted her bleach blond tresses on the red carpet, complete with a dash of bronzer, light eye makeup and a striking red lip, seemingly channeling her inner Gwen Stefani.
…while Bella Hadid goes gold
New month, new ‘do! Moments before the Christian Dior runway show, the model debuted her bleach blond tresses on the red carpet, complete with a dash of bronzer, light eye makeup and a striking red lip, seemingly channeling her inner Gwen Stefani. …while Bella Hadid goes gold
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 05: Model Bella Hadid walks the runway during the Maison Margiela Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017-2018 show as part of Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week on July 5, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
All eyes were on the model’s glistening hairstyle as she strutted her stuff on the Maison Margiela runway. Although she’s previously claimed she’d never go full-on blonde, we gotta admit it — she looks good as a golden goddess.
Zendaya’s summer glow shines day and night
All eyes were on the model’s glistening hairstyle as she strutted her stuff on the Maison Margiela runway. Although she’s previously claimed she’d never go full-on blonde, we gotta admit it — she looks good as a golden goddess. Zendaya’s summer glow shines day and night
Photo: Getty Images
Leave it to Z to slay two completely different beauty looks less than 24 hours apart! The fashionista rocked a DIY top knot and minimal makeup for Viktor and Wolf’s fashion show, giving off that gorgeous bronzed glow we all aim for during the summer. She rocked a more dramatic take on the beauty look for the Ralph & Russo show, sporting slicked back, wet hair and a fierce smokey eye.
See more highlights in the video below!
Leave it to Z to slay two completely different beauty looks less than 24 hours apart! The fashionista rocked a DIY top knot and minimal makeup for Viktor and Wolf’s fashion show, giving off that gorgeous bronzed glow we all aim for during the summer. She rocked a more dramatic take on the beauty look for the Ralph & Russo show, sporting slicked back, wet hair and a fierce smokey eye. See more highlights in the video below!
It’s not Hollywood that has a problem with Emily Ratajkowski’s body, it’s the fashion industry.
Days after she made waves after claiming she was too sexy to get work, the model-turned-actress, 26, turned to Twitter to explain that her burgeoning film career hasn’t been affected because her “boobs are too big” – only her modeling career has.
“FYI I was talking about the fashion industry not celebrating the female form, NOT Hollywood,” she tweeted.
Last week, Harper’s Bazaar Australia published an interview in which Ratajkowski, who rose to prominence after shimmying her way topless through the video for Robin Thicke’s “Blurred Lines,” strongly intimated that her career had been hampered by her looks.
“There’s this thing that happens to me: ‘Oh, she’s too sexy,’” she told the magazine. “It’s like an anti-woman thing, that people don’t want to work with me because my boobs are too big. What’s wrong with boobs?”
“They’re a beautiful feminine thing that needs to be celebrated. Like, who cares? They are great big, they are great small. Why should that be an issue?” she added.
While her modeling career may be in a slump, Ratjkowski, who appeared in the 2014 adaptation of “Gone Girl,” is still acting.
Last year, she appeared in an episode of the Netflix comedy “Easy,” and has also starred in two movies, “Cruise” and “In Darkness,” that are currently in post-production,according to IMDb.
Ioni’s Bonpoint debut isn’t her first exposure to the children’s wear brand. In January, the pair attended its Fall/Winter 2017 children’s fashion show, where the little girl wore a plaid coat, a wide-brimmed hat, black leggings and black boots all by Bonpoint.
“Taking @ioniconran to her very first Paris fashion show!” Rocha captioned a glamorous shot of herself and Ioni hanging out in January.
Though Ioni’s interests are clearly fashion-oriented, her mom didn’t always think it would be that way. In February 2016, Rocha told PEOPLE “I don’t think so” when asked if her daughter would become a model someday.
“You never want to do what your mom does,” explained the working mom of one. “I keep saying she’s gonna be some sort of scientist. Something crazy where I just couldn’t help her in her maths or reading skills.”
Arrivals for Giambattista Valli autumn-winter 2017-2018 haute couture fashion show in front of the Petit Palais in Paris, France.
Celine Dion (Photo by Jim Smeal/WireImage) The 70th Annual Academy Awards – Press Room This content is subject to copyright. 75251683 5423085 Ron Galella Collection Contributor
Celine Dion (Photo by Jim Smeal/WireImage) 71st Annual Academy Awards – Arrivals This content is subject to copyright. 75153935 5423038 Ron Galella Collection Contributor
LOS ANGELES, CA – FEBRUARY 12: Singer Celine Dion attends The 59th GRAMMY Awards at STAPLES Center on February 12, 2017 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Lester Cohen/WireImage)
LAS VEGAS, NV – FEBRUARY 21: Celine Dion attends the Celine Dion Collection First Handbag and Accessory Collection press conference at Project Womens at Mandalay Bay on February 21, 2017 in Las Vegas, Nevada. (Photo by Denise Truscello/WireImage)
LAS VEGAS, NV – MAY 21: (EDITORS NOTE: Image has been converted to black and white.) Singer Celine Dion performs onstage during the 2017 Billboard Music Awards at T-Mobile Arena on May 21, 2017 in Las Vegas, Nevada. (Photo by Ethan Miller/Getty Images)
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK – JUNE 15: Celine Dion performs during the opening night of her Celine Dion Live 2017 tour at Royal Arena on June 15, 2017 in Copenhagen. (Photo by Dave J Hogan/Dave J Hogan/Getty Images)
Celine Dion leaves the Royal Monceau hotel in Paris. 13 Jun 2017 Pictured: Celine Dion. Photo credit: KCS Presse / MEGA TheMegaAgency.com +1 888 505 6342
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 14: Singer Celine Dion is seen on June 14, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/GC Images) GC Images 700065070 695946316
Celine Dion out and about in Paris, France, on June 21, 2017. (Photo by Mehdi Taamallah/NurPhoto) *** Please Use Credit from Credit Field ***
Celine Dion leaves her Hotel for the Kenclub sport center in tiger clothes Paris,June 19 th 2017. 19 Jun 2017 Pictured: CÈline Dion. Photo credit: KCS Presse / MEGA TheMegaAgency.com +1 888 505 6342
Celine Dion poses as she leaves her hotel in Paris, France.
Pictured: Celine Dion Ref: SPL1526036 230617
Picture by: Splash News
Celine Dion leaves the Hotel Royal Monceau in Paris wearing HermËs handbag for value of 75.000 Euros. 25 Jun 2017 Pictured: Celine Dion. Photo credit: KCS Presse / MEGA TheMegaAgency.com +1 888 505 6342
During “The Atelier With Alina Cho,” Michael Kors discussed the importance of Asia, his new fall ad campaign, having First Lady Melania Trump as a customer and helping to provide millions of meals for the underprivileged.
Michael Kors, Alina Cho
and helping to provide millions of meals for the underprivileged.
Michael Kors and Alina Cho were interrupted by animal rights activists early on in their discussion Wednesday night at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, but neither was about to let the protesters ruin the night.
One minute the designer was talking about giving his likeness “a cute backside” in a resort print and moments later he was encircled by demonstrators chanting about his use of fur. But Cho and Kors kept their cool. Once order was restored, after a short break, they returned to the stage to discuss his career. After the fact, Kors said of his intrepidness, “Listen, I had the ceiling fall during a runway show and hit Suzy Menkes on the head, and the show went on.”
Kors’ priority is his shoppers. “I always say that I make the frame so that the women who wear the clothes are the picture,” he explained. Here, are a few of the highlights.
The company’s recent decision to close 100 stores
“We all have to remember that nothing is ever going to compete with the rush, the rustle of the tissue paper, the shopping bag — you can’t give that up. We just did a trunk show in Chicago. You’re showing clothes to women who have seen them on their phones. It’s not quite the same thing. It’s a matter of how all of this works together how you shop online on your phone, on your laptop, in a store.”
Giving back with God’s Love We Deliver and the U.N. World Food Program Watch Hunger Stop
“We live a very fast life in New York. A lot of people are very privileged. I tell everyone, ‘Go deliver a meal. It will change your world.’”
Why is Asia so important to everyone’s business?
“Everyone has to remember the best word in fashion is ‘curiosity,’ so if you have a customer who is excited, inspired, enthused and curious isn’t that the best business opportunity? Now we’ve seen there is less variance from region to region. Maybe we sell more boots in Moscow or more sandals in Singapore, but our customer travels and they actually have a very similar point of view.”
Sizing up Mario Testino’s shots of Edie Campbell in the new fall campaign
“I love that she’s so chic and so bored. What’s amazing though in fashion, a lot of people think fashion has to be sad and dour. And it can never be happy or, God forbid, wearable. Mario and I both love joy, energy, luxury and glamour. Sometimes I hear people say, ‘Oh, I’m going to wear that for special occasions.’ I’m like, ‘Your life is a special occasion. Wear your damn beaded dress with a sweatshirt over it.’ Enjoy the things you own.”
His view of the Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons exhibit
“Mind boggling. When you see the breadth of her work, it’s remarkable. Everyone says they wear Comme des Garçons T-shirts or cute sneakers, but then you look at these pieces that certainly were never designed to be worn or packed. I mean packable? It’s not walkable or sittable. Here’s a designer who’s not thinking of that when she’s creating these things. She’s really creating in a very different sphere.”
Walking the red carpet and dressing Kerry Washington for this year’s Met Gala
“Torture — the stairs freak me out. They seem endless. When I talk to celebrities who have walked the red carpet a zillion times, they say they still get nervous. Kerry had just had a baby and I said, ‘You want everyone to see how remarkable the bod is looking….Right before we were about to get into the car, I asked her, ‘Are you wearing commando briefs?’ She said yeah. I said, ‘You’ve got to switch your underwear.’ So we switched everything and sewed her underwear to the dress at the last minute literally on our way. That’s the ultimate couture attention.”
Melania Trump wearing Michael Kors
“She’s been a customer of ours for a long time. What we have to remember is that my favorite customers are opinionated. They know what works on them, what’s right for them….The simple truth is if I do my job well we have customers who are 17 and who are 90, customers who are size zero and size 22. So I don’t think it’s a political thing.”
Securing the largest IPO for a fashion company in 2011
“When I first started in fashion, American fashion was for America. The reality is if you have been doing something for a long time and can still stay curious, that is the greatest thing as a human being. And certainly to do what you love. But I think it says a lot about American fashion and how potent American style is globally.”