Milan Fashion Week Men’s Street Style

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Will 2018 Be the Year of Tess Holliday?

Photo: Nick Holliday

When Tess Holliday has something to say, she lets the world know. The Mississippi-bred model has made headlines for speaking up regularly about issues related to feminism, body acceptance, and motherhood. In doing so Holliday has become one of modeling’s most outspoken women. Whether she’s voicing solidarity with the #MeToo movement on Twitter or using her Instagram to decry fat-shaming, Holliday has been a vocal advocate for the issues she considers vital. Her latest crusade—about the lack of different body types on the runway—hits close to home. “One thing I think constantly is if brands like Gucci can make plus-size menswear, then why can’t we see it for women?” Holliday asked during a visit to the Vogue offices. “I want to break into high fashion because you have plus-size celebrities, you have the consumers, and yet we’re not seeing a reflection of [that] reality. Even broaching the subject can make people [get] up in arms.”

The role of trailblazer suits Holliday. At just 5-foot-3 and a size 22, she is an anomaly within the world of modeling. Petite and soft-spoken in person, she styles her hair in Rita Hayworth waves. Tattoos reveal her pop-culture idols: Dolly Parton is etched onto her forearm, Hello Kitty peeks out from her right calf. In person, Holliday comes across as sweet yet determined—a quality that has served her well over the years. Her evolution from unknown to star wouldn’t have happened if she had accepted the conventional advice. Inspired to give the business a try at the age of 15 after seeing images of plus-size supermodel Emme, Holliday was initially turned away by scouts at a casting call in Atlanta who informed her that a career would be all but impossible. “I got rejected because of my height and my weight,” she said. But that “just made me push harder.”

Giving modeling a second try at the age of 24 after a move to Los Angeles, Holliday found her footing once she tapped into the power of social media. Garnering national attention after creating the viral hashtag #effyourbeautystandards back in 2013, she encouraged women of all sizes to reject regressive ideals, a move that pushed her modeling career into the spotlight. After signing with Milk Model Management, home to crossover stars like Sabina Karlsson and Robyn Lawley, she started getting the kind of recognition few models of any kind receive. With 1.5 million followers on Instagram, covers of mainstream publications like People, and work for mall mainstays like H&M, Holliday’s image is possibly more familiar to some consumers than that of the average runway star.

2017 was a banner year for Holliday. She released a best-selling memoir, The Not So Subtle Art of Being A Fat Girl; launched a sold-out collection with retailer Eloquii; and landed a beauty contract. Not content to rest on her laurels, Holliday has high hopes for this year. “I feel like now is the time to shake things up. I’d like to be the person who changes things, or at least open doors for others.”

Photo: Nick Holliday

Though recent years have seen an uptick in the prominence of models that are larger than sample size, few jobs exist for those who do fit into a certain mold—even in categories where size should not be a concern. “It was interesting for me to step into beauty,” says Holliday who shot her first campaign with hair-care label Sebastian late last year. “For so long advertising hasn’t been inclusive when it comes to plus sizes which is crazy to me. Hair and makeup are things used by everyone—it doesn’t make any sense.” The lack of available bookings carries over into fashion week, where in spite of the strides made by women like Ashley Graham and Candice Huffine, opportunities are still rare. “It’s great to see size 14’s on the runway and it’s a big change, but the majority of women in the U.S. are a 16—where is the representation for them?” says Holliday, who for many years considered runway work a pipe dream. “For a long time I kind of said that it was not something I wanted to do. I understand that I’m short, big, and tattooed, but after doing a couple of runway shows [last] year, my outlook changed—it was exhilarating.”

One milestone was her debut during London Fashion Week at plus-size label Simply Be’s collection, which has whet her appetite for working with serious designers. “I want to do more high fashion [in general], to be in magazines wearing luxury designers,” says Holliday. “It’s time to see someone of my size represented and I’ve done everything else!”

With NYFW on the horizon, her presence could provide New York’s runways with some much-needed size diversity, but for Holliday the conversation only moves forward when designers who feature non-sample size models within their shows also expand their size range for consumers. “Why would I want to walk the runway for a brand to be their token plus-size girl when they’re not even making my size?” says Holliday. “When these big brands that have so much influence start making plus sizes, then 100 percent call me because then it shows that they care and that they’re actually invested.”

Such confidence comes from Holliday’s fan base. She is routinely inundated by letters, tweets, and DMs. After the publication of her book, she received thousands of messages from women sharing their own frustrations with body image and fashion. “I had one woman write me and say that reading the book made her realize that her partner was abusive and she left because she wanted better for her life,” she said. “Messages like that meant a lot to me.” As she now prepares to take her story to television with an as-yet-untitled reality show set to debut later this year, Holliday hopes that she can continue to make an impact. “I went in wanting to show who I am in my life and not just the part that people think is glamorous,” she says. “I can’t talk much about it yet, but I’m hoping that it will influence people in a positive way.”

It’s in the jeans: US fashion goes back to denim’s glory days

Catwalk revival of old styles immortalised by Hollywood stars sees surge in jeans market

The jeans market is booming again as the US turns back the clock to denim’s glory days. 2017 saw the largest year-on-year growth in the sector since 2013, pulling in over $95bn (£67bn) worldwide compared with $91bn the previous year while sales of premium designer jeans doubled its growth.

Observers believe shoppers are deciding to try other styles beyond the skinny silhouette that has been so popular for more than a decade. This season styles hark back to authentic American selvedge denim and come straight-legged, stiff and in a deep indigo hue.

The trend began last year on the Calvin Klein catwalk, when designer Raf Simons paired dark indigo jeans with a matching shirt for his influential debut collection for the brand. For spring/summer 2018, a host of other designers joined the fray, showing not just indigo jeans but indigo denim in general. At Tom Ford, dark denim materialised in a sharp blazer with pointed shoulders and high-waisted, wide-legged jeans. At MaxMara, a buttoned-up boiler suit came with selvedge-style turn-ups. At Versus Versace there were tonal jackets and knee-skimming skirts.

The impact of the trend is already being felt on the high street. Asos reported sales of jeans were up 58% this week, compared with the same period last year, while denim dressing at the e-tailer was up 81% from 2017.

Celia Cuthbert, the head of buying at Asos, said that “authentic dark, raw and untreated indigo” was its biggest denim trend this season, and that while its customers still loved slim and skinny jeans, the brand was “seeing more and more sales coming through from wider-leg silhouettes and straight legs”.

This look, similar to that immortalised by Marilyn Monroe in 1961’s The Misfits and Martin Sheen in 1973’s Badlands, evokes a glory time in American history when the US was the leading purveyor of denim worldwide.

Vetements raises the heartbeat at Paris fashion week

An aggressive synth soundtrack accompanied scowling models in world’s oldest antiques market

Imagine a fashion show in Paris, and you probably wouldn’t come up with a sea of scowling models stomping between stalls in a flea market while an aggressive synth soundtrack boomed.

That was the set up for Vetements’ autumn/winter 2018 show at the world’s oldest antiques market, Paul Bert Serpette, in the Saint-Ouen district of the French capital.

In only a few years, Vetements has risen from obscurity to become one of the most influential labels in fashion, producing witty visual jokes that appeal to the internet’s sharing economy, such as the infamous £185 DHL T-shirt that became the fashion hit of summer 2016.

This time there was no single logo to home in on. This was a show designed to raise the heart rate – and not just with the music, as models pelted down the catwalk in clusters, presenting so many clothes in so many clashing charity-shop patterns that it was difficult to know where to look.

It began with Vetements’ stylist and catwalk regular Lotta Volkova wearing rich-lady sunglasses and an inside-out gilet. She also wore a glamorous headscarf, as did a good number of the models, often with baseball caps peeking out of the front.

There were surly slogans on T-shirts – from “I don’t care, thanks” to “I’m not deaf, I’m just ignoring you” – and a range of prints across garments, from camouflage trousers to Marilyn Manson shorts to patent boots bearing designs of postcards of Zurich, the city where fashion nerds will be aware that Vetements has recently moved.

There were scarves tied around shoulders, and jumpers and shirts tied around waists and coats worn on top of coats. There were so many layers that at times models’ bulky silhouettes were reminiscent of the scene in Friends in which Joey puts on all of Chandler’s clothes at once.

As the source of so many recent crazes in fashion, from logo socks to “ugly chic” trainers to haute hoodies and frayed-hem jeans, trend watchers would have been paying close attention. Judging by the footwear, the next big thing may well be thick-soled Buffalo Boot-style boot-trainer hybrids that wouldn’t have looked out of place in Camden market in 1996.

From gender fluidity to a fur-free future: here’s what we can expect from the fashion industry in 2018

Shopping for new outfits for a holiday in Hawaii can add up – unless you go the route of fashion blogger Mia Maples and buy them from eBay.

Planning out her outfits months in advance – because that is how long it took for some of the items to arrive from far-flung retailers – Maples decided to spend her holiday in clothes she bought for about $5 or under from the online auction site.

Filming her clothing experiment for YouTube in a new video, the blogger shows off each item before donning it while on vacation with her family.

While some of the clothes looked a little iffy upon first glance – and on – some of the outfits turned out surprisingly well.

Here’s a rundown of the outfits Maples wore – and the rating each outfit received from the fashion blogger.

Day One

On her first day in paradise, Mia wore a red floral dress, which she purchased from eBay for $5.44 (£4).

The dress turned out to be completely see-through so Mia opted to wear it as a cover-up for the beach instead.

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The dress was completely sheer
screenshot-2018-01-02-at-11.57.27-am.png
Maples wore the dress as a cover-up instead

But “the straps kept sliding off” and the blogger noticed “You can’t actually tell what is the front and what is the back so it is like nothing is shaped differently to stay up on you.”

As a beach cover-up: 8/10

As a dress: 2/10

Day Two

For day two, Mia wore the “outfit she was most excited for,” which turned out to be our favourite.

Pairing a knock-off Calvin Klein crop top with some high-waisted workout shorts and a suede-like black baseball cap to go for a hike, the outfit fit well and looked good.

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Maples was not a huge fan of the hat size
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The “Calvin Klein” top was a hit

Although she expressed concern over the hat, “the beak feels a lot longer than a normal hat,” the shirt was a win for Mia because “it was really comfortable.”

But you could tell the shorts were made from cheaper material from the unravelling of the strings.

Mia forgot to rate the outfit so we did it for her.

Hiking outfit: 9/10

Day Three

On her third day of holiday, Mia ditched a pair of blue pants she had ordered because they “sucked,” but wore a black silk top with lace.

The top, which felt like “real silk” turned out to be her “absolute favourite thing from the entire eBay haul.”

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This black lace shirt was the blogger’s favourite item

According to Mia, the top comes in other colours and she is planning on buying those too.

Black lace top: 10/10

Day Four

Mia only wore a top from her eBay purchases on day four, not a full outfit, because she had originally planned to wear it with the blue pants.

She paired the Ebay pink frilly shirt, which was “really great quality” with a pair of overalls to go flea market shopping.

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The blogger paired the top with overalls

If you like the top, Mia urged her followers to “just go and buy it because it was super inexpensive and awesome.”

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Mia loved this top

Mia forgot to rate this top as well so we took over.

Pink frilly top: 10/10

Day Five

On her fifth and final day of eBay outfits, Mia had returned back home.

Saving the worst for last, Mia’s final outfit consisted of a salmon-coloured skirt with overall straps and a white tube top.

According to Mia, this is the “one outfit that she didn’t think through and just wasn’t a good idea.”

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The fashion blogger thought this outfit felt like a kleenex

The straps “were way too long and kept falling off” and the skirt felt like “a kleenex.”

However, the tube top was actually quite nice because “how could you mess up a tube-top.”

The rating says it all.

Skirt with overalls: 1/10

Overall, the $5 clothes from Mia’s eBay haul turned out to be surprisingly cute. So if you’re planning a holiday, or just want to shop on a budget, it looks like eBay may be a useful place to start.

Just prepare for a long wait once you press orde

Blac Chyna Poses in Pink Wig and Plunging Dress Amid Kardashian Lawsuit Drama

Hair color chameleon Blac Chyna has switched up her look yet again for an impromptu photoshoot in her own home.

The star is known to experiment with the boldest hair hues — even rainbow! — so it’s not surprising that only a few days into 2018, she’s giving baby pink a go. Chyna posed for a sultry photoshoot in her kitchen (because why not?) wearing a plunging, cleavage-revealing Fashion Nova dress and her millennial pink mane.

She didn’t keep the trendy hair color for long though. Soon after Chyna shared her sexy photos on Instagram, she posted another wearing a patterned bodycon Fashion Nova mini. But this time, she opted for a platinum blonde wig instead.

Blac Chyna/Instagram

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Although her hairstyles don’t stay with her for long, Chyna’s lawsuit drama with the Kardashian family is continuing to follow her into the new year.

In October, Chyna filed a lawsuit against Rob Kardashian (the father of her 13-month-old daughter Dream) and his family alleging that he was damaging her brand and verbally and physically abusing her. But the Kardashians are fighting back.

Last week, Kris JennerKim Kardashian and Rob’s attorneys filed a “demurrer” objecting to and asking for a dismissal of Chyna’s lawsuit against them, in which the mother of two claimed the Kardashians were responsible for E! not moving forward with the planned second season of Rob & Chyna.

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Soon after, court documents also revealed that Rob is denying all assault claimsalleged by Chyna, including that he grabbed “phone from her hand and violently knocked her to the ground where she landed on her hands and knees” and ransacked her closet. However, according to Rob’s statement, “She did not suffer any injury or harm as a result of any conduct by [Kardashian].”

long acting career and a 10-year stint as a Lancôme ambassador, Oscar-winner Kate Winslet has learned a thing or two about beauty. But that doesn’t mean she spends her life in the make-up chair either. Here, Winslet talks to Vogue and offers a wonderfully frank take on ageing gracefully, styling out beauty disasters and the dangers of social media for young people.


Peter Lindbergh

What was your own first experience with make-up?

I remember the smell of kiwi lip balm from The Body Shop when my older sister got some in her Christmas stocking. And I also recall some fun dabbling with electric blue mascara. I loved it. Why can’t we go back to the blue? It was so fun. And glitter! Who doesn’t love a bit of face glitter. It was much more prevalent in the Eighties… let’s start a re-trend! I even remember spraying it my hair.

What do you do when you really need to look your best for a big event?

First off, I have to say right away that sleep and health play a big part in looking fresh. If I’m over-tired or stressed, no amount of make-up and hair can disguise the impact of that on one’s face. So if I know I have to look red-carpet-ready for something, I do try and look after myself in the few days running up to that moment. Nothing fancy or expensive but I’m 42 now, so I can’t get away with murder anymore! So my top tip would be water. Water, water, water. Keep the body hydrated and the skin will follow suit. And I try and stay away from salt and alcohol before an important occasion and throw a few green smoothies together in a Nutribullet. Whilst my life would be too dull without salt and the odd glass of wine, we all know that cutting them out makes for a healthier complexion. At least it does in my case.

For the red carpet, you work a lot with make-up artist Lisa Eldridge. How do the two of you come up with your looks ahead of each event?

To be honest, we never plan anything ahead of time. If I remember to send her a photo of the outfit I will be wearing, she will often have a think about what kind of look to suggest on the day. And she is always coming up with fresh new ideas to try which is lovely for both of us to have fun with. I have learned a great deal from Lisa. Tricks and tips that I share with other make-up artists as well as with my friends. Lisa loves to share ideas with other women and this is one of the reasons I respect and admire her so much.

Lisa told me that once or twice you’ve actually done your own make-up for the red carpet.

I just copy Lisa! Actually, I love doing my own hair and make-up. Partly because I can do it fairly quickly on my own, but also there are some days when I just don’t like all the fuss and faff that can come with lots of people prodding and fiddling with your face and hair. It’s hard to explain, especially since sometimes it’s lovely to be glammed up like that. But I’m a pretty low-key, low-maintenance person, and I like to keep life as normal as I can around me. So doing my own make-up is reassuring in that regard. It sort of normalises a red-carpet moment, which – let’s face it – is FAR from normal!

Lisa Eldridge: Six Tips For Budding Make-up Artists

What are your tricks?

So I stick to a light base – Teint Idole Ultra Wear Foundation in 01 and a bit of Camouflage concealer from the same range. But nothing too heavy, especially round the eyes where make-up can gather and make a person look older. I am not very good at eyeshadow so I tend to stay away from being too creative in that area, and I just hit the lashes with a great mascara and an inside root line on the upper lashes, with mascara on a flat brush. Lancôme Grandiôse Mascara in Noir really helps to define the eye (something I learned from US make-up artist Jillian Dempsey). I’m a huge fan of eyeliner for a final hit of smudge on the lower lash root only – Le Khol Duo in Brun Glace 02. This is a double-ended eye pencil that Lisa designed last year. She gave one to me and I’m still obsessed! And for lips I would need something that will stay put but be creamy at the same time. For a red I’d favour Lancôme Isabella (true red matt, very classic), and for something subtler I’d opt for Lancôme Nuit et Jour (pale nude, pinkish undertone). The latter was my mum’s favourite colour and she passed away this year so there is something very emotional about using that colour for me now. And having decent make-up brushes makes a big difference, I even use paint brushes sometimes! I try to stay away from looking too matt, so not too much powder. And a smattering of really soft blusher. Blush Subtil in Rose Paradis, for long-lasting, gentle glow.

At the Toronto International Film Festival in 2017

Rex Features

Have you ever had any beauty disasters?

Ha! Now that would be telling. I have definitely had some bad red-carpet hair moments which somehow are more noticeable than make-up disasters I think. And I’ve definitely had the occasional false eye lash fall onto my cheek, but luckily a well-meaning person has always saved me and flicked away the offending lash before a photographer spots the straggler on my cheek! Can you imagine? Hilarious. And I’ve had some clothing disasters too. Last-minute zips breaking, tripping on a hem, discovering that a black outfit is actually slightly see-through under a flash bulb. Or just choosing to wear a bad dress. It happens. And life is too short to worry about it!

You’ve undergone so many beauty transformations in your film roles, which has been your favourite?

That’s a big question! I have to be honest and say that I had the most fun playing Clementine in Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. She was totally un-vain and yet she has such a mad and brazen way of expressing herself through her clothes and hair. Which was so hilarious and fun for me. It was wonderful to feel that wild and vibrant. It made my own style by comparison feel really dull and maudlin but in spite of trying to expand my clothing choices after that movie, I still wear mainly black.

Rex Features

What is your go-to look when you’re off-duty?

Oh this one’s easy! Usually I’m in workout gear and some kind of chunky scarf. My hair is likely to be wet, no time to ever dry it properly. I wear minimal five-minute make-up. A quick, all-over, thinnest-of-thin-layers of foundation. I always curl my eyelashes out of habit more than anything, (can’t go wrong with Shu Uemura curlers). But no mascara in the daytime. Got to preserve the dwindling lashes. And a bit of lip balm. I’ve been pretty addicted to By Terry’s Baume de Rose for as long as I can remember. But I have to hide it these days as I have a 17-year-old daughter who shares the same addiction.

How about your daily skincare regime?

My routine is pretty fast because it just has to be. And I take more time at night and actually very little in the morning. I always take my make-up off no matter how tired I am. Daily I use Tracie Martyn Amla Purifying Cleanser. It’s very fresh, gently scented and really deep cleans the face and neck. And it’s fast, no fuss. And I like using a good flat facial sponge to make sure it’s truly clean. I get quite dry skin so occasionally I use an old favourite of mine, Lancôme Toner Comfort, and then I slather up with Advanced Genefique Sensitive. This is my two-for-the-price-of-one product! It combines two serum concentrates with a vitamin E boost, all in one bottle. Shake, slather, done. It’s really hydrating and fresh and fast to use. All of this takes me about three minutes. Four if you include brushing teeth.

10 Best Concealer

 

Yes I do. I lived in New York for almost a decade and I would try and have occasional facials with Tracie Martyn. There is nothing quite like her Red Carpet Facial for literally transforming the skin and enhancing bone structure naturally. And her products are wonderful. And in the UK I see Glenda Barton at The Skin Company. Her facial totally transforms the skin, working with the body’s own muscle memory. Her heat-generated sculpting techniques literally put freshness and vitality back into the face without using any chemicals or peel type things, the idea of which scares me. Sometimes I will go to Glenda feeling like my face has slid downwards, and somehow she sort of puts it back where it’s supposed to be.

Has your regime changed much as you’ve entered your forties?

So far, if I’m honest, it hasn’t changed that much. But the older I get, I am much more aware of the impact of internal health and the direct impact it has on my skin and hair. I am definitely starting to notice a difference in the density of my skin on my face and body. I probably moisturise my body much more these days than I used to. Mainly natural oils on the body though, because I don’t want to use too many chemical products on a larger area of skin. This Works Skin Deep Dry Leg Oil is fab. I mix it with a couple of drops of lavender essential oil, which is really nice and not crazy expensive.

Peter Lindbergh

And what about your approach to beauty in general?

Honestly, I have learned that health comes before reaching for a mirror or a bottle of product. And if anything, I do look in the mirror less and less as I get older. In my twenties I probably thought about my appearance more than I do now, for the simple reason that as I get older I have more important things that concern me than how I look. Like family, happiness, and having fun! Priority kicks in when you are a parent and my approach to beauty these days comes from a place of wanting to feel happy and healthy. Plus I know that I feel my most beautiful when I feel like I am being a good mum, and when I am doing my best in my job and in loving my family. If I look after myself first and can look after everyone else even better. And that is something I have only been able to learn with age.

As a mother of daughters, how do you feel that the rise of social media has changed attitudes to beauty?

Just today a close friend, a younger actress who is well-known, was saying to me that social media is the single most damaging place for a young woman to spend her time. I am worrying more and more about the potentially negative impact that social media is having on the growing self-esteem of young people today. Everything they see these days is either something to be envious of, or an image of an experience that another person is having that is unattainable and exists in someone else’s so-called “perfect” or more exciting life. It is becoming harder and harder for young girls and boys to believe in their own selves and to enjoy life, without needing to social “share” and subsequently have something that may have had meaning to the individual be “liked” or “disliked”. It’s terrible. There is no space for freedom or personal growth through spontaneous life experience, and healthy discussion and real-life sharing amongst friends and family is being affected as a result. What happened to privacy? What happened to friendships that are based on real conversations and shared experiences, OFF line and IN the real world? It makes me really sad.

What are your travel beauty tips? Are you a sheet-mask-on–the-plane kind of person?

When I travel on long-haul flights, these days I always take off my make-up and throw on a ton of moisturiser. And if I know that I have to look decent as soon as I step off the plane then yes, I do go for a sheet mask. Lancôme Advanced Genifique Mask is amazing. I always feel a bit daft sitting there looking like Hannibal Lecter with the cut-out eye slits. But if I know that I have to go directly from the airport to record a live talk show or to a photo shoot, I just have to do something to help out the face whilst I’m in the air! And water of course. At least two litres for a long-haul flight.

What are the three products you’d always have in your handbag?

To have three products in your handbag, you’ve got to be pretty organised. Also, I don’t believe in carrying beauty maintenance items with me when I’m out and about and going to Waitrose. So I can’t say I’m the best person to answer this question. But I always have hair ties, lip balm and wet wipes! Does that count?

Do you work out?

Yes, I do work out. But not fanatically. I do power yoga and barre cardio. Both of which I love. And I walk a lot. We’ve got a lovely dog so… he needs lots of walking.

In the time you’ve worked with Lancôme, what has been the most fun project?

I think the most memorable and fun project for me was actually the first ever campaign that I shot for them with Peter Lindbergh, for Trésor. We were just a small crew of people, no drama or fuss, and we shot a black and white commercial on a bridge over the Seine. There was real sincerity and romance to the images and it was early days for me in my relationship with Peter, who has become a friend as well as being my favourite photographer to work with. He is calm and funny, and he absolutely adores women and always captures powerful images of women looking very natural and strong. I truly love and respect him a great deal. It’s been a great privilege to work with Lancôme and it continues to be collaborative and interesting. The brand has changed a great deal, as the market place changes year after year. But their core values remain strong and clear. And the other ambassadors are all women I admire and feel blessed to share this role with.

What is your favourite way to pamper yourself, when you have a spare hour?

To sit down with a cup of tea and a good crossword!

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