The New York Times Women’s Fashion Shows: Missoni, Jil Sander, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

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Missoni | Angela Missoni used her runway show to make a statement: Every guest was given a Missoni-woven “pussy hat,” and models walked the finale wearing them. The designer ended the show with a speech to the crowd. “In a time of uncertainty, there is a bond between us that can keep us strong and safe — the bond that unites those that respect all human rights,” she said.

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In what the designer termed a “very personal” collection, she used a giant image of the pinkish Monte Rosa mountain she sees from her window in Sumirago, Italy, to represent “a mountain of women that you cannot deny.”

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This season’s patterns came straight from the vast Missoni archives. This year, the designer marks the 20th anniversary at the creative helm of the house.

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A note of casual glamour ran through the collection. Lurex formed fuzzy, shimmery stoles.

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Other super-skinny scarves appeared to reference the golden aiguillettes of military uniforms.

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The show layered chevron knits, stripes, giant zigzags, checks and plaids together.

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Boots completed a head-to-toe lurex look in an iconic Missoni motif.

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A sweater with the female symbol on the chest. Backstage, the designer emphasized that people, not fashion, need to be the force behind dissent, but said symbols “help people declare who they are.”

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Some in the audience had already donned their pussy hats, and many more joined in as the Missoni family stood together after the show while the designer declared, “Let’s show the world that the fashion community is united and fearless.”

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Jil Sander | The fall/winter 2017 show began with a series of minimal pieces in black and camel — but midway through, a vivid-toned spectrum of looks animated the mood.

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The designer Rodolfo Paglialunga showed a series of looks in voluminous silhouettes.

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Dresses and coats retained the aggressive shoulders Paglialunga introduced last season — “to give women power,” he said.

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Models wore lug-soled pumps and boots that symbolized the contrast between elegance and comfort in the collection.

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Periwinkle, deep copper, cherry wine, chartreuse and pink marked the shift in the collection’s color scheme. Paglialunga called the color infusion “joie de vivre.”

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“Femininity and lightness,” the designer stressed backstage. “That’s what I was looking for with these volumes — a touch of ease.”

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The purified, geometric shape of the giant carryalls, in solid leathers or multicolor stripes, added further volume to the clothes.

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As in seasons past, Paglialunga continued to play with the twisting of silhouettes and fabrics.

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Padded coats, with their shoulders inflated and set forward, gave a soft cocooning effect of protection. This collection is rumored to be Paglialunga’s last for the house.

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Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini | Lorenzo Serafini created a fall collection that blended mod girl inspiration with the glamour of a young Elizabeth Taylor. He called it “the soft side and the hard side — the duality of a woman’s soul.”

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